Saturday 21st May 2011
Flying to Rome
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Across the mountains |
Rome was hot as we waited for our bus, east to Sulmona then Pacentro in Arbruzzo.
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Bus from Rome |
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Autostrada tunnel |
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Summer snow |
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First glimpse of Pacentro
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Osteria Maggiore on the Piazza |
We celebrated our arrival with a delicious dinner. As you can see, 9 pm was too early for the locals, but the dining room was full by 9.45pm.
From the soft villages of England to the strong light and marble streets of Pacentro was a shock. We were welcomed by Maddy from Birmingham, who sold up and moved to Pacentro four years ago. She speaks Italian and enjoys her life. We followed her up and up.
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Up the marble steps |
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Up and up |
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To Maddy's door |
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Just below the 11th century castle walls |
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Where the women washed their clothes in the stream for hundreds of years |
Her little house just below the castle, is very comfortable. I can see how this incredible Medieval village captivates her.
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Maddy's kitchen |
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Maddy's living room |
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The view from Maddy's balcony |
Settling In
Pacentro has the friendliest people and the most stunning mountain views, being on a tiny plateau saddle on the steep slopes of the Apennines east of Rome.
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Pacentro |
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Our Piazza
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With its church |
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and Ben coming home with the shopping...... |
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to the awaiting cats..... |
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and a welcome reminder of our life in Italy..... |
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and its New Zealand roots. |
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Ben painting poppies |
We were delighted to spend three weeks in Kiwi Casa, owned by a NZ friend of Ben’s. It was large and bright, inspiring Ben to paint the poppies in the valley below.
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Poppies in the valley
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Our small kitchen would provide a challenge in preparing a banquet.
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Kitchen |
The interior of the flat is large and very cool with each room having a small balcony and double doors with shutters.
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One of three bedrooms |
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View from the bedroom |
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View from the living room |
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Sunset on the Appenines |
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Farm in the valley
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Cool |
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Long curved corridor |
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Mirror and image |
Walking Around
We spent a good deal of time exploring the village, with its hidden delights and wonders of ancient architecture.
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Little church |
Near here Mary and Alec from Oxford have a small house with a big garden. They paid 15,000 British pounds for the lot and share it with friends. They can see the snow on the distant mountain and the whole valley from there.
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Mary and Alec's Terrace and garden |
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Horse fresco and ancient arch |
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Deserted house |
Many of the houses in Pacentro have passed into the hands of young relatives now living in Rome who are not interested in restoring antiquity. They stand abandoned and deteriorating.
Mary and Alec were lucky to buy one of these, and so was Richard from Boston. He works on his house with the help of Pietro, a local builder.
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Pietro, Richard and Ben discuss retoration techniques |
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New ceiling and stairs |
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Via San Marco, the main street of Pacentro, shops below and flats above |
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Ben looking forward to siesta |
The Villa is a small park just off the Via San Marco. It has a view over the Sulmona Valley and is a good placeto have a beer after siesta. Siesta is from 1pm to 5pm every day and NOTHING happens during siesta.
Some shops were worth looking at even though they were closed.
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An up-market furniture shop just off the Piazza |
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Rose door |
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Houses below the castle wall |
These houses are about 900 years old.
Ben thinks “It is hard to imagine how such areas have remained so unchanged.”
Hello, Liz and Ben. I stumbled upon your blog as I was searching for the name of the outdoor basin that women had washed their clothes in. I am an author and my family came from Pacentro. We were there 2 years ago. I plays a central focus in my story.My family are the Marchiondas and Gentiles. Yes, I know there are lots of them there!. I truly felt this to be a magical place. What wonderful pictures you have. Blessings to you.
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